Maldives: Better Off Going To Fiji

I have to confess that my main reason to visit Maldives was to see it before it disappeared. Before arriving, I did not know anything about the place, as usual. So I thought it would be a good idea to ask a local through CouchSurfing for some advice on how to travel and not break the bank. My host, who was a pilot for a resort, and his roommate advised me to check out Maafushi island. They had recommended it to other surfers and had gone themselves with good reviews. This is one of the times I should have taken the advice of a friend on the spot and stopped searching around but didn't. I guess it's always easier giving medicine than taking it and curiosity is a hard illness to cure. So I ended up calling up two tour operators I had met the first day, one at the airport and one on the main island as I was searching for an ATM. They turned out to be rivals and began arguing over my patronage. I did not know this when I asked to meet them back to back in a cafe to discuss whose deal I wanted. That should have been my sure sign to ignore both of them but I ended up picking a local island package with other trips included rather than a resort with nothing. It turned out to be a package from hell. I stayed at the Well Travel Guest House on Hangnaameedhoo island for five, too many, days. The guy seemed to greet me with contempt, knowing that I put the rivals head to head. The food was almost always canned and bland. I asked for other types of food and fresh with little success. He would remember for the next day and then it disappeared again. I asked some locals if they consumed fresh or canned vegetables and they answered fresh. Why was I paying so much for this holiday to eat canned food? Even school food tasted five times better. The snorkeling fins were also too large for me but he never bothered to change them so I didn't even use them. Worst service, worst beach vacation, worst country ever! It was so bad, I had started counting down the days I would be flying back to India.

My room or hideout in Well Travel on Hangnaameedhoo.

The local island.

Near the port on the island.

My first day I went to a deserted island and got caught in a storm. I was stuck there for over two hours till the weather abated so the boat could come pick me up.

I got bored during the storm so I tried catching the crabs. They were inedible so I let them go.

Visiting a resort for a day. This one was Chaaya Reef Ellaidhoo. It was a beautiful island, which made me wish I had chosen the resort package though I know I would have been bored out of my mind still.

Doesn't this look inviting?

The last deserted island. Thank goodness for sunny weather.

Twilight on the way back.

Reminding the terrible tour guide/guest house manager that he still owed me a fishing trip. It was surprising how fast we caught the fish. It took less than thirty minutes to catch three blue lined snappers and a white snapper.

A sand bank I had to myself. This was a big positive to the whole experience.

This couple joined me for one day three days in but left the day after because they disliked it so much. If it didn't cost so much for transport, I would have done the same. Trust me when I say the food was crap.

Nightfall on the local island.

A local lady weaving coir, or coconut fibers.

On the last day, I decided to hop to Maafushi and instant improvement. I was really sad I had messed up my vacation. I ran into the Chinese couple that had told me to go to Africa for the safari when I was in Sri Lanka at the ferry port. They had also enjoyed the island and again I was sad I hadn't chosen to go there earlier. Though I was glad the vacation within a vacation ended well, I would never return here again. All around, Fiji was 100% better for those looking for a beautiful beach vacation.

Huge yellow fin tuna!

The reception to my hotel, Venturo.

The tourist section of Maafushi. Since it's a local island, it's technically illegal to wear bathing suits here.

Sunset on Maafushi.

I had to rush to the airport by speed boat because I had forgotten that Fridays are the start of their weekend (no public ferries on this day everyone). I was gripping the boat with all my strength the entire way but I had made it in time. I was excited to return to India, especially since the next adventure would be on a coffee plantation!

Sri Lanka: A Mixed Send Off

Kandy: heart of Sri Lanka

The first day I arrived, I caught the Kandyan dance at the Red Cross Hall. The most impressive of the ladies's dances included their grace and colorful dress. The men provided the acrobatics, drums and fire elements.The next day, I took a trip to the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. It's sad to say that I also decided against entering the complex after I found out they had recently rose the tourist price again. I discovered from other travelers later that they actually chain the elephants constantly during the day in the orphanage. It's either all of the attractions are quickly becoming overly commerialized, or I'm getting jaded. On the other hand, I met a ayurvedic intern who steered me towards an alternative (there are many of them around). I got to ride the elephant for a split second and bathe it in the river with a coconut husk as a brush. At the end, I was offered a free room for the night in Pinnawala by the intern and a guy working for the safari. Nothing comes free sirs but I admire your blatant honesty. Either way, I'm finding this country to be stressful to travel despite my earlier enthusiam. The final day I spent exploring the Temple of the Tooth. The ticket was a packaged CD. A ticket and a souvenir in one!

A dance with lamps.

Some of the dancers in midair.

The finale: walking on fire!

Helping to wash the elephants with one of the safari companies. The elephant's favorite part of the day.

Innovative store transforming elephant dung into paper crafts. Many of the books are scent with cinnamon and other spices.

Inside of the Temple of the Tooth.

The common line to reach the inner worshipping chamber.

Nuwara Eliya: heart of Ceylon Tea

I stayed at a beautiful colonial looking hotel called Princess Hotel. I checked out the Pedro Tea Estates though I would recommend hopping on a bus that takes you bit out of the city to visit other tea estates such as the Bluefield Tea Estates. The staff member who conducted the tour was in a rush to close up shop. Her tone resonated her annoyance at us for being the last group. Well, when the short and hasty tour came to an end, everyone was surprised. I stayed to explain how the leaves were picked to the curious group while the staff member ran inside to change out of her work clothes. At least, a complimentary cup of tea was served before the tour.

The next morning, I attempted to hike up Pidurutalagala but was stopped by the army. I had hitched a ride but was told I needed to travel in my own vehicle. I was instructed to head back down the hill, hire a car and come back. That was not and did not happen. A slight drizzle began upon my exit. Perfect timing.

Pedro Tea Estate.

The many different grades of tea.

They tried to give me a ride up Pidurutalagala but got reprimanded by the army. Very funny fellows.

A view of Nuwara Eliya.

The local market.

Adam's Peak: which religion does this mountain belong to?

I began the ascent up the mountain at two AM and ran into a man from Germany with his guide. They were intently examining their shoes and legs. That's when I realized they were searching for leeches that had already found their way up into their pants and into their shoes. I walked quickly the rest of the way up with a Spanish couple, while periodically stamping my feet forcefully. Excitement and fear filled us as we quickly reached the top and rested inside to wait for the sun to rise. The magic of feeling above the clouds was wonderful. This was hands down, my favorite site in Sri Lanka. Although the peak is named after Adam, a Buddhist shrine lies on the summit. I passed many Hindu gods and coves to worship them on the way up. The footprint on the top is claimed by all major religions. So whose foot do you think left the imprint?

I never did see the German guy and his guide at the top. I found out later that the guide had leeches up to his crotch so they went back!

The view before sunrise.

The clouds at dawn.

In case the dieties aren't awake yet.

Wait for it...

Clouds, make way!

Everyone on top was so glad to see the sun because it brought warmth to our chattering bodies.

Lighting incense above the clouds.

The decent.

Imagine waking up at 2:30 AM to climb this. The ascent was just under two hours.

The climb was amidst tea fields, not that I knew that at the time.

Buddha between two Hindu deities: the one on the right was perhaps Laskshmi, since an elephant was the vahana.The one on the left, not pictured, was Ganesha.

Ella: there are leeches here too :O

I arrived and accepted a tout for a cheap, new hotel. I had a view of Rawana Ella Falls from my little hotel, that was more like a homestay. The owners were newly weds, eager to appease their guests. They cooked me a massive dinner and showed me their wedding album. I hope their friendly manner remains with them as tourism continues to boom. Early the next morning, this time around four AM, I climbed up Ella's rock with the help of a guide. I did not expect the duration of the trip to be along the railway tracks nor to be bitten by a leech but this is the adventure of travel.

Ah, would anybody care to join me for dinner?

At twilight.

Well, good morning to you too!

My local guide taking a nap on an amazing tree.

I tried to claim the top bunk but it was way to hard to lay down.

Saw her picking tea after I reached the bottom.

The trail involves walking on railroad tracks over half of the time.

Yala National Park: a must NOT visit!

Okay, yes you can see leopards in this park and perhaps sight some wild elephants but at what cost? I have to say I was warned by the Spanish couple, who read from their Lonely Planet guide, that the Yala Park was now filled with more jeeps than animals. I should have heeded their warning and changed my plans. A Chinese couple I met on the bus also told me to wait for Africa when I told them I was going for a jeep safari. And again when I was in Tissamaharama, the scramble for tourist business told my instincts to tell me to leave. But there I went still and left feeling like a fool. I would never recommend anyone to go here. True, the nature of this business is to find animals tourists wish to see and the way they attempt to fulfill it is by rushing to routine spots or when they receive a phone call with a sighting. I feel ashamed to have been contributing to this madness and mad at the government for allowing this to continue so they can exploit the tourist buck.

The new form of hunting.

The bear running away from us, like many that come too close to the dirt path jeeps drive on.

A male peacock showing off for the females. This was the real treat for the day as we saw nearly the whole dance.

To emphasize a point, here's another.

The buffaloes coming out to drink during the hottest time of the day.

A leopard eying his prey. I can't say that seeing this animal live was not majestic but the means to it soured the experience.

A toucan: so they don't only exist on cereal boxes lol.

A lone wild elephant also coming out for a drink. Apparently, most elephants and herds in this park have learned to hide after smelling the fumes of jeeps.

Hummanaya: Sri Lanka's blowhole and bucket shower under the stars

So after rushing out of Tissamaharama with more issues of locals trying to rip me off, I arrived at the blowhole in Hummanaya. It was a bit hard to find and I was attempting to head from there to Weligama on the same day. The guide at the blowhole convinced me to stay at his house for the night when he found out I hadn't booked a hotel. His home in Dikwella was a temporary home set up by the government for families affected by the tsunami. It was mostly bare and his family was surprised to see me. There were many times when I tried to back out of it before reaching his home but it didn't work. It was an experience of a lifetime, however, and I'm glad we got through the awkwardness with the help of chipmunks. The family had found the young chipmunks orphaned and decided to care for them until they could eventually care for themselves. Here is a family that could barely put food on the table, yet had invited all these strangers into their humble abode. I was incredulous, so even though I knew he was expecting me to give him a tip before I left, I was happy to give it.

The Indian Ocean and back of the blowhole.

The guide told me this is about three quarters the full height. It would be better to come in the morning.

A wider view.

The family found these young Indian chipmunks after the tsunami and have been caring for them until they get bigger. They had been feeding them the milk-fat of milk but allowing it to turn into a yogurt consistency. The generosity of the poor never ceases to amaze me.

My outside shower under the stars and surrounded by fireflies.

The son bringing me a candle since there was no power due to the weather, but also a common occurrence in the tsunami relocation zone.

Their sleeping surface. When I saw it, it broke my heart to think they had given up their only mattress for me to sleep on.

This was his neighbor's backyard.The head of the household is his uncle but the contrast in wealth was startling.

My breakfast at his uncle's house consisted of rice with chili grated coconut, bananas and papaya. They saw me pass by their house on the way to the bus stop and eagerly invited me in for tea, which turned into a whole feast.

Ahangama to Habaraduwa: stilt fishermen and turtle hatchery

The stilt fishermen have become a symbol of Sri Lanka though it doesn't seem the government gives them much support to maintain this tradition. Instead, most of the stilt fishermen are posers these days, pretending to fish while tourists snap some pictures and drive away. They require you to give a tip and one man is waiting by the roadside to collect it when the vehicles drive up. I asked to buy some fish from them to sniff out the real ones. That was when I found two of five of them seriously fishing. One of the fishermen got off of his stilts and waded deeper to reel in bigger fish. In the end, they cooked me lunch with the fish and wouldn't accept my tip. I told them they should open a restaurant and farmer's cooperative through micro-finance. After asking my friend, Min, about it, she recommended the site Kiva. I passed it on to them through email correspondence but they seem confused on how to begin or would prefer me to give them a loan. If anyone has any other suggestions, please leave a comment below!

I continued on to the turtle hatchery but never made it to the beach. The hatchery saves eggs that the locals dig up to eat and also injured turtles found on the shore or by fishermen. The hotel I stayed the last night at ended up offering to help me open a cafe. I was excited at the prospect of returning to Sri Lanka but this never came into fruition. I left Sri Lanka feeling as though I had lots of work to do, thinking about the cafe and stilt fishermen.

Climbing up to their perch.

The one with the straw hat to the left was the real fishermen.

Most tourists literally drive here, stop for two minutes to take pictures and drive off. I can see why they ask them for a tip for their livelihood.

The bigger fish was caught wading into the water while the smaller ones were caught sitting on the stilts.

A fishermen cooking my meal in his rented house across the street. If you look closely, dried coconut leaves were used as kindling.

As fresh as it's going to get!

The family.

The turtle hatchery. Most of these eggs were bought off of the locals that dug them up for food.

This little buddy was about a week old.

This green turtle lost its right frontal fin to a boat.

Coming up for a breather.

The next morning, I rushed to the airport and was lucky the new highway was open, thereby cutting the travel time to the airport from two hours to half an hour. A much anticipated Maldives yet a dreading wallet.